Buenos Aires is great for eating, so long as you like meat. I had been acclimating to meat in prep for the trip, but by no means did I wish to make it my primary intake. Nor did I wish to eat pizza for every meal. Without significant effort, these were my options. I got cocky the first night and ate meat... And suffered... And opted for granola bars and bananas for two days. Today I sort of felt back to normal so I chanced the aforementioned street vendor burrito and that was actually really good.
Lucky for me, I don't travel to eat or shop. But yeah, I hear the food is great.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Hasta leugo, Buenos Aires!
I finally found my BA people. They were in the neighborhood I considered staying in (San Telmo) and while I'm still glad I stayed central instead, I am so glad the Lonely Planet fail that led me in search of vegetarian fare down here led me to Feria de San Telmo. The best comparison would be Portland's Saturday market, only bigger and better quality.
it went on for blocks and blocks... and blocks
how I knew I'd found my people
Even the veggie burrito I bought from a street vendor (with much trepidation) had no ill effects on my stomach, unlike everything else I've consumed here.
I am on a mission to not purchase anything until I have offloaded all my polar gear but I made an exception for a small photo that will grace my next kitchen:
kitsch for my next kitchen
Really great stuff. Also today: Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays and Jardin Japones. The former featured lots of mosquitos and non-feral cats (they feed and care for them) along with cool plant life including a sole US tree species from Ca/Or.
and I shall name him One-Eyed Willy
Celocedrus decurrens ("Libocedro") - Estados Unidos, California y Oregon
Saturnalia - Ernest Biondi
a closer look
The latter was much lighter on the mossies and heavy on very hungry koi. I have never seen koi beg before. The Japanese garden is between two major byways and right under the air traffic, so not so zen. But still very pretty, and not at all crowded for a Sunday - thank you, "partly cloudy with a chance of showers."
pretty gardens with planes flying overhead
feed me!!
I walked there (maybe 2 miles of pleasant neighborhoods) but I had gotten tired of getting caught in afternoon downpours so I opted for the Subte (subway) on the way back. I forget how nice subway consistency is. No matter where you go (DC, SF, PDX, Paris, London, BA) the process is the same - you buy a ticket, you go through a turnstile, the routes are color coded, the train has the final destination and the elderly get priority seating. Sometimes you buy the ticket from a machine, sometimes a person. Sometimes a nice lady tells you the doors are closing or to mind the gap, sometimes (like today) there is a loud honk before the doors slam shut. But it's pretty much the same. Is there a universal subway standard I don't know about?
Might seem silly to notice such things, but after four days of feeling somewhat like a fish out of water as I get my travel legs on (?) little things like that make my day sometimes.
it went on for blocks and blocks... and blocks
how I knew I'd found my people Even the veggie burrito I bought from a street vendor (with much trepidation) had no ill effects on my stomach, unlike everything else I've consumed here.
I am on a mission to not purchase anything until I have offloaded all my polar gear but I made an exception for a small photo that will grace my next kitchen:
kitsch for my next kitchen Really great stuff. Also today: Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays and Jardin Japones. The former featured lots of mosquitos and non-feral cats (they feed and care for them) along with cool plant life including a sole US tree species from Ca/Or.
and I shall name him One-Eyed Willy
Celocedrus decurrens ("Libocedro") - Estados Unidos, California y Oregon
Saturnalia - Ernest Biondi
a closer look
pretty gardens with planes flying overhead
feed me!!I walked there (maybe 2 miles of pleasant neighborhoods) but I had gotten tired of getting caught in afternoon downpours so I opted for the Subte (subway) on the way back. I forget how nice subway consistency is. No matter where you go (DC, SF, PDX, Paris, London, BA) the process is the same - you buy a ticket, you go through a turnstile, the routes are color coded, the train has the final destination and the elderly get priority seating. Sometimes you buy the ticket from a machine, sometimes a person. Sometimes a nice lady tells you the doors are closing or to mind the gap, sometimes (like today) there is a loud honk before the doors slam shut. But it's pretty much the same. Is there a universal subway standard I don't know about?
Might seem silly to notice such things, but after four days of feeling somewhat like a fish out of water as I get my travel legs on (?) little things like that make my day sometimes.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Photo of the day, 2/20/2010: Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires.
Not sure if this qualifies as megalomaniacal or ridiculous...More on the cemetery later.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Keeping BA weird.
Realized today why everyone moves so slow, in addition to cultural adjustments. It's called 100% humidity.
As a quick repose I went to the Museo del Patrimonio because of the Lonely Planet description: "if you like quirky museums..." Already they know me so well. It's full of old pipe fittings and toilets. Strange, yes, but a nice break from the loud, dusty, congested city streets.
pipe fitting display at the Museo del Patrimonio
Cool building on the way to/from the toilet museum
And finally, the Washington Monument in Buenos Aires... donde estoy?
As a quick repose I went to the Museo del Patrimonio because of the Lonely Planet description: "if you like quirky museums..." Already they know me so well. It's full of old pipe fittings and toilets. Strange, yes, but a nice break from the loud, dusty, congested city streets.
pipe fitting display at the Museo del Patrimonio 
Cool building on the way to/from the toilet museumAnd finally, the Washington Monument in Buenos Aires... donde estoy?
El Obelisco de Buenos Aires
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Photo of the day, 2/18/2010: Buenos Aires.
Mark said something about it looking like the Jolly Green Giant's shoe. I would agree.Early Friday five.
Five things I learned about Buenos Aires today, in no particular order:
• The legend is correct - people ARE nicer. Except the people who have to deal with tourists all the time.
• Traffic lights don't mean a damn thing, for cars or pedestrians. Just cross your fingers, look both ways, step off the curb and hope for the best.
• Really good coffee and really crap beer cost the exact same.
• They do love politics. Most of the graffiti I saw today was politically-based and tonight I passed a street protest on the way to dinner. (In 2 months I might be able to tell you just what they were protesting.)
political signs outside the Casa Rosada
• And the golden rule: You are the only one in any kind of hurry.
• The legend is correct - people ARE nicer. Except the people who have to deal with tourists all the time.
• Traffic lights don't mean a damn thing, for cars or pedestrians. Just cross your fingers, look both ways, step off the curb and hope for the best.
• Really good coffee and really crap beer cost the exact same.
• They do love politics. Most of the graffiti I saw today was politically-based and tonight I passed a street protest on the way to dinner. (In 2 months I might be able to tell you just what they were protesting.)
political signs outside the Casa Rosada• And the golden rule: You are the only one in any kind of hurry.
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