Machu Picchu trek: day five.

This morning we slept until 7am and awoke to a bright and sunny day, but with clouds looming in our future. As Viki said, "if you don't like the weather just wait five minutes." That might have to be the quote of the day, as it proved true several times in the span of just a few hours.

After a leisurely breakfast of the usual (porridge, granola, eggs, bacon and Nescafe) we set out on our short morning trek to the next campsite. It rained briefly but not enough to dampen our spirits. We descended to Paukarcancha through meadows of green and flowers similar to those we had seen the first day of our trek.

Clearly we were back in the tropical lowlands, at an altitude of about 3000m, where things other than rocks grow. Right before our campsite we passed Incan ruins of a small town. On the short walk down to camp four parrots flew by... Hopefully not our last sighting.

We arrived around noon. Today's journey was short for two reasons. One, we say goodbye to our horsemen and their horses. From here on out porters will carry our bags and gear, and I will have no more fun rides on Ballo. I imagine it will take some time to sort through things and prepare the gear for the porters to hand-carry. Yes, I am getting awfully spoiled on this trek.

Two, today we enjoyed a Peruvian barbeque which took some time to prepare. A hole was dug in the ground and stones were heated for about 2-3 hours until screaming hot. Then, meat (in this case lamb purchased yesterday from a local farmer), potatoes and homemade cheese are arranged in the rocks, the rocks are covered with tall grass (and a tarp to speed things along), and about 45 minutes later we enjoyed the tastiest meal yet. Yes, I ate part of a cute little lamb and boy, was it yummy.

We are staying in the backyard of a local farmer; her husband passed away a while ago so she "rents" space in her backyard to groups for a little extra income. This also allows trekkers to enjoy this type of lunch (fires aren't allowed in the sanctuary of MP) and a cold shower (if desired, I did not but I did wash my hair - a luxury!) before starting on the official Incan Trail. The farm is small but really quaint with gorgeous views of the valley, and a menagerie of chickens, bunnies, cats, dogs and a pig entertained us as we feasted. (I hope none of them are breakfast tomorrow.)

Lunch was delicious. Our hostess made amazing chili paste ground and mixed by hand to spread on the meat and potatoes. The salads (beet and carrot, broccoli and cauliflower, and a sort of lettuce slaw) were fresh and the barbequed cheese (made here) was great. As usual, way too much food. The Pilsner purchased from our hostess helped us wash it down though!

We have been lounging this afternoon, packing up what we no longer need to send back to Cusco to lighten the porters' load and resting up for the next few days. Rumor has it there are 20,000 steps down the trail into Machu Picchu. If that's true, I need all the rest - and the leftover lamb and potatoes - I can get my hands on...

backyard campsite at dusk (not pictured: campsite)

(later)
Spent a while talking with the guide about the highland people, their habits and customs. Of interest...

- The land is communally owned and if one party wishes to sell their land the community must agree to it.
- They sometimes move around the countryside rotating crops, so they may be on one farm for a few years and a new farm the next few years. (The homes with thatched roofs are occupied; the ones without are not.)
- When a new couple gets together the whole community joins forces to build the house and the parents of the couple throw a big party/feast.

I think our guide is sensitive to years of questions about the "savages" who live off the land and tempers his comments accordingly. I've heard some insensitive questions/comments on this trek and have probably said some myself without realizing, so I understand his defensiveness, but it sounds like old times in the colonial US to me. There us much we could learn and employ from these folks... In particular the minimalism. It's been working for them for hundreds of
years.

The soup tonight (all we could bring ourselves to eat after the lunch feast) was lises - a sort of tuber that grows in the Andes. It was delicious. I did manage to eat some chocolate with peanut butter in addition to the sweet corn dessert - all in the name of lightening the porters' loads, of course.

we really like tha moon

Quote of the day: "there is no Quechua word for 'meaning'." - Quechua dictionary (Hugh Thomson, "A Sacred Landscape)