We interrupt this Galapagos update for a brief announcement.

I considered not mentioing this but decided to share it as a warning should you ever decide to visit. We seem to have offended Tour Guide by our questions about the itinerary and all the extra money he keeps requesting for this or that. You read that right... Offended. Our tour guide. Yeah.

This is an exhibition which changes with the weather and the animals, and we are all fine with that. But we had been given no information other than a sketchy itinerary. The greater flamencos, not on the itinerary, cost an extra bit of $$ from each person because we were not supposed to be there and things are strictly regulated... for obvious good reason. A side trip on day three was going to cost an extra bit of money (which turned into a LOT of extra money when it came time to pay the other boat's captain - ?). The snacks and meal food were also not 100% covered by the hefty trip price, to our surprise. So all the nickel-and-diming and complete lack of information was starting to add up and it was only day two.

We all brought this up with Tour Guide at the next day's briefing after day two. The conversation to quell his hurt feelings took about 30 wasted minutes to clear up and left me considerably annoyed. I was able to get perspective again eventually (I am in the Galapagos!), and I understand and am sensitive to cultural differences in general, but this is the tourism industry and when people do a trip like this it's often a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity because of the cost. I have NEVER seen a tour guide cop a total attitude in front of everyone. He's only been doing this 5 months but that should be lesson #1.

I saw a passenger on another ship totally bitching her guide out because they only stayed 10 minutes somewhere and she didn't see something another group did. THAT was ridiculous and I would never do, or encourage, such behavior. The birds and tortoises and weather couldn't care less about us. And I didn't mind that Tour Guide couldn't wait to leave us the first night on Cat - it was a first in my travel/tour experience but it was Easter Sunday and he wanted to be with his family, fine. It didn't seem to matter to him that the crew spoke little English and all but one of the passengers spoke mostly English, but that was easily workable for a night. (The one guy has sadly become our translator. I am NOT tipping him.)

But when your reputation and your tip depend on your attitude it's best to leave the sour one at home.

That exchange probably put this trip onto a new light where I have realized it's all about the money here. There is talk of ecology and conservation but the presiding theme, at least on this small boat which is only one of many small boats, is that we are supporting the locals with our tourist dollars. Not just with our guide and his under-the-table deals - all ships are supposed to only have four hours to play and the rest of the time is at port... Where there is nothing to do but shop. That makes me sad. The four hour rule surely started for conservation reasons, and in general I think part of it is that the travel industry is still immature here... But I think most of it is just capitalism at its finest.

But, I will work on the attitude this week and will still enjoy this trip. Two lessons for you: do extensive research on tour guides before you come to the Galapagos (I have one I do not recommend!), and don't start your travels in the pristine Antarctic with an amazing expedition staff... It sets the bar too high.

douche guide

We now return you to your regularly scheduled daily updates.