Machu Picchu trek: day seven.

This morning we awoke at 5:30am to get an early start. Warmiwanusca Pass ("Dead Woman's Pass" - so named by the porters because the tourists are usually white-faced when they reach the top) was a no-problem 1200 foot climb and the views at the top were awe-inspiring.

we're not dead, we're resting

We took a quick break and continued down a very long, steep stone stairway with gorgeous views...

there are hundreds of orchid varieties on the Inca Trail

... to Pacaymayo where we had a snack and headed west up another 300m of steep stone stairs to the Runkuraqay ruins, the only circular shaped ruins we would see on this trail.

my favorite - the Incan niche

From there we descended 300m again...

... and one of the younger porters met us to give us a silent tour of the Sayaq'marka ruins - "silent" because he spoke no English and my Spanish today was a colossal fail. Anyway, on the edge of a cliff, this was a strategic site that blended well with the terrain, had panoramic views of all the possible entry points and may have housed up to 30 families (hard to know for sure).

It was enormous, yet from the outside and distance it looked quite small, kind of like the Winchester Mystery House with its labyrinth of rooms you would never guess would fit from the outside.

We continued uphill for a quick lunch stop and a beautiful walk through the cloud forest along a steep cliffside, past amazing new flowers and mosses, inside a naturally formed rock cave, and to
Phuyupatamarka, our final resting point for the day and final campsite for the trip.

I {heart} moss

Viki going into the abyss

yet another lousy campsite view

We are surrounded - absolutely surrounded - by frogs and toads! I couldn't find one but you sure can hear them everywhere. There are lots of other campers around but it's nice to have a campsite that doesn't smell like a cow (or horse or llama) pasture and the fog from the cloud forest is eerily fun to watch roll in (and out and in and out).

also fun? these guys

Tomorrow we have a bit of hiking and smaller exploration of ruins along the trail before we enter the Machu Picchu ruins. After that, a shower, clean clothes and a warm bed. I decided earlier in the trek that I have spent nine weeks wondering which shirt is less dirty to wear each day, so for this trek I gave myself a break from this decision by wearing the same shirt/pants combo all week. (The pictures will show this so I might as well just disclose it now.) It's been cold enough (or slow enough) that neither got too gross but I am sure the shower will be amazing and the combo will be tossed into the "burn these" pile immediately afterward.

It's weird to have porters carrying our stuff, especially ones so young (our tour guide this afternoon was 18) and somewhat older (one of the older ones was having a hard time up Dead Woman's Pass this morning). I am trying to just accept that it's a hard job but a job regardless, and I will surely be tipping them well. Sounds like they are quite an organized bunch with a Union, and regulations on weight they can carry and that sort of thing, which is definitely not the
case for many other hard jobs here or in the US. So there's that. Two sides to every coin, as our guide keeps saying.

So that should be the quote of the day but instead it's going to be "peep peep peep!" - the toad outside our tent

(later)
An almost full moon, ground toads chirping all around, the clouds completely visible in the moonlight, stars peeking out, it's not too cold to enjoy the view, a great tentmate and a few plastic tumblers of Chilean wine out of a box. This could be the best day yet of my 2010 adventure. (How many more times will I say that, I wonder?!)